MUNICH: Where Bavarian Tradition Meets International Sophistication (October 2024)
Zeke and Terri at the Hoftgarten
Back in October, after an 11-hour flight from San Francisco, Munich welcomed us with open arms and reminded us why some cities immediately feel like home. Despite arriving exhausted and jet-lagged, we discovered a city that perfectly balances Bavarian tradition with international sophistication.
Fighting Jet Lag with Exploration
Our strategy for conquering jet lag led us straight from the Ameron München Motorworld hotel to the heart of the city. Armed with Rick Steves' excellent audio guide and sheer determination to stay awake, we navigated Munich's efficient U-Bahn system to Marienplatz, the perfect introduction to this remarkable city.
The famous Glockenspiel at Neues Rathaus provided our first "only in Munich" moment, while the juxtaposition of Altes Rathaus and Neues Rathaus told the story of a city that honors its past while embracing progress. Climbing both the Neues Rathaus and St. Peter's Tower gave us panoramic perspectives that helped orient us geographically and historically to our new temporary home. If you have to choose between the two, as we talk about in our Munich video, we recommend St. Peter’s Tower.
Architectural Revelations
Munich's churches revealed the city's spiritual and artistic evolution through centuries. The ornate baroque splendor of Asamkirche felt almost overwhelming in its decorative intensity, while Frauenkirche's soaring twin towers and vast interior space created a sense of quiet majesty that left us speechless (or maybe we were just very tired…Zeke may or may not have napped in a pew!). Theatinerkirche was elegant and refined, showcasing how different eras interpreted sacred spaces.
The Munich Residenz proved to be an adventure in itself, and not just because of its historical significance. This former royal palace complex felt endless and we genuinely struggled to find our exit, joking that it felt like being lost in an IKEA. The jewels exhibit provided stunning insights into Bavarian royal wealth, while the palace rooms demonstrated how power was displayed through artistic patronage and architectural grandeur.
Cultural Surprises
Our visit to Haus der Kunst challenged our expectations in the best possible way. The intense Pussy Riot exhibit provided contemporary political commentary that felt particularly relevant, while the main collection demonstrated Munich's commitment to showcasing challenging modern art alongside its more traditional cultural offerings.
The Pinakothek der Moderne continued this theme of Munich as a city that takes contemporary culture seriously. Despite our mounting exhaustion from jet lag and extensive walking, the museum's collection reminded us that Munich isn't just about lederhosen and beer gardens…it's a major cultural center with international reach.
Unexpected Urban Adventures
Perhaps nothing captured Munich's unique character better than discovering river surfing in the middle of the English Garden. Watching surfers navigate the Eisbach wave (an artificial rapid created by the flowing river) felt like stumbling upon a secret that locals were generous enough to share. This perfectly encapsulated Munich's ability to surprise: a landlocked Bavarian city with an urban surfing culture, and egalitarian to boot. There were as many gals as guys surfing the waves, taking their turns from each side of the river.
The English Garden itself demonstrated Munich's commitment to green urban spaces. Walking from Haus der Kunst through this expansive park to reach the surfing spot gave us a sense of how thoughtfully the city integrates nature with urban living, and soothed our brains after the intensity of the Velvet Underground: Pussy Riot’s Moscow exhibit at Haus der Kunst.
Culinary Discoveries and Social Spaces
Frank restaurant across from Odeonplatz provided our introduction to Munich's sophisticated dining scene. Sitting outside, people-watching while enjoying excellent food, we began to understand the city's social rhythms. The nearby Viktualienmarkt showcased local food culture, while our wanderings through Altstadt revealed countless spots where locals gathered, dined, and celebrated daily life. It wasn’t just tourists!
The Munich Difference
After 36 hours of recovery and exploration, several factors distinguished Munich from other German cities we've visited:
International Atmosphere: Despite its deep Bavarian roots, Munich felt genuinely cosmopolitan. We heard multiple languages, encountered diverse cultural offerings, and sensed a city comfortable with its role as both regional capital and global destination.
Walkability: Munich's compact historic center made exploration on foot both feasible and enjoyable. The efficient U-Bahn system connected distant attractions seamlessly (including our hotel), but much of our discovery happened simply by wandering from sight to sight.
Cultural Depth: Beyond the obvious tourist attractions, Munich revealed layers of artistic and intellectual life. From contemporary art installations to classical concert halls, the city demonstrated serious commitment to cultural programming.
Local Friendliness: Perhaps most importantly, Munich residents struck us as genuinely welcoming. Whether asking for directions, ordering meals, or navigating public transportation, we encountered helpful, patient people who seemed proud of their city and happy to share it.
Beyond the Tourist Trail
For travelers seeking authentic Munich experiences, we discovered several approaches that yielded rich rewards:
Climb the towers: Both Neues Rathaus and St. Peter's Tower offer spectacular city views and help orient visitors to Munich's layout and history
Embrace public transportation: The U-Bahn isn't just efficient; it's a window into local life and connects scattered attractions effortlessly
Seek contemporary culture: Balance traditional sights with visits to modern art museums and cultural centers
Explore green spaces: The English Garden and Hofgarten provide essential breathing room and showcase Munich's commitment to urban livability
The Lasting Impression
Watch our 36 Hours in Munich video to see how we navigated jet lag while discovering a city that immediately felt like a place we could call home, and plan to visit again in September.
Join us as we explore Munich's perfect balance of Bavarian tradition and international sophistication. If you’d like ideas on what to see and do in Munich on your next trip, check out our Munich Travel Bingo card.
